First 100-Point Italian White Wine Is Made In Stunning Mountainous Area

Posted on December 20, 2025 by damewine

Many of the families could see the long, golden strands flying up into the wind as the young woman to whom those tresses belonged came running down the nature-adorned slopes as the backdrop of gigantic mountains dusted with pure snow started to get farther and farther behind her within minutes. All the families in the ancient village of Tramin knew everyone else’s children as well as their own, and this particular 20-year-old young lady had always been overly aggressive, even reckless at times, never appreciating the precious paradise surrounding her, instead, seeing it as a prison where someone fades away in obscurity. As she watched U.S. movies and followed American social media posts filled with glamour and excitement, made by other young people who were taking the world by storm, she became more restless, until one day, she would leave for the American dream and was determined to live there for good.

She could have never known that the village’s winery coop would make history by making the first Italian white wine to score 100 points, as the area was far from being a world-renowned wine region and was only appreciated by a devoted core following.

Cantina Tramin

Cantina Tramin vineyards with mountains
Photo Credit: Cantina Tramin

The idea of a cooperative (coop) winery is something less familiar in the U.S., but it is a common practice in Europe. Families that own small plots of vineyards come together in a village so they can pool their money to build a modern winery and have more resources overall to keep everything at a high quality, ideally. For most coops, the ideal is not implemented as money can get mismanaged, vineyard owners can decide to make their own wines using the top grapes from their lots, leaving the inferior grapes for the coop and there can be in-fighting with many families coming and going creating a very unstable coop.

Landscape of the village of Tramin
Photo Credit: Cantina Tramin

Yet Cantina Tramin in the northern Italian wine region of Alto Adige, within the mountainside village of Tramin, has always had an excellent reputation and has been known for decades as one of the best, if not the best. Despite its stellar reputation, it would seem that the first 100-point Italian white wine would come from one of the world’s famous fine wine families in one of the top wine regions for exports, and it would not be a coop, no matter how good. Hence, the 100-point score was quite a surprise to many but no surprise to the longtime fans of this impressive coop.

Journey To The Top

Hillside vineyards with lake in the background Photo Credit: Cantina Tramin

The 160 family growers who make up the coop are co-owners of the Cantina Tramin, and as a whole group, they own over 660 acres of vineyards. Some family growers only have an acre, while others own a handful of acres. Yet, the chief winemaker, Willi Stürz, who has been there for over 30 years, goes to each vineyard with an agronomist to work with the growers to achieve the best results in any given vintage plot by plot. Willi started a radical revolution with the Cantina Tramin coop 25 years ago when he decided to place all their energies and resources into high-quality wine when many other coops were only focused on cheap wine made in high quantities. It was a radical idea as no one could ever imagine that wine drinkers worldwide would take a coop’s wines, especially one tucked away in an isolated Italian mountainous area focusing on white wines, that seriously.

Sunbeam of light through the vines
Photo Credit: Cantina Tramin

However, through time, they planted white grape varieties more suited to the climate, such as Gewürztraminer, and it was their Gewürztraminer ‘Epokale’ that was awarded a 100-point score by Wine Advocate a few years ago. The ‘Epokale’ is one of the many long-term projects of Cantina Tramin that has had simply stunning results from its first vintage, 2009, receiving 100 points that was released in 2018, and it illustrates its mission beautifully, showing the aging potential of Gewürztraminer; currently, the 2016 vintage is on the market. The ‘Epokale’ bottles are cellared within the inside of a mountain, almost 1,500 feet below sea level, in an atmosphere of 90% humidity and 52 degrees Fahrenheit consistently throughout the year. 

Family owners hand harvesting
Photo Credit: © Yoshiko Kusano/EQ Images

Willi says the primary key to their significant rise in quality, as some consider them one of the best white wine producers in the world, is a tremendous amount of manual labor by the co-owners themselves in their vineyards to make sure only to produce low-yields, extremely healthy grapes and an ideal balance for each bunch. Also, all of the grapes are hand harvested with the most intense care, which is not too difficult when a winery has 160 families, strong mountain people through and through, that are highly invested in doing the backbreaking work since they are owners building on the future for their children and grandchildren.

Always A Mountain Person

Five years after the young local woman left for a more glamorous life in the U.S., she was coming back home for good, ultimately defeated. After jumping around to a few different American cities, she could never find a real community or a sense of belonging. Instead, she found cutthroat environments, a high cost of living and going through half a dozen heartbreaks that she had to endure alone. For so long, she felt she couldn’t take the humiliation of letting everyone back home know that they were right the whole time, but she had gotten to the place where she was broken.

As she returned home to Tramin, she told her parents to tell people she was too busy to see anyone for a while, but they finally convinced her it was better to get it over with sooner rather than later. She hung her head in shame as she went to her first village gathering, and then suddenly, she froze; everyone was facing her, holding their arms open to her. Tears started to run down her face, and one of the women, who always scolded her as a girl for being too arrogant, approached her and asked her why she was crying. “I thought you would never open your arms to me again since I turned my back on the village,” she barely muttered as she was trying to fight a sobbing feeling welling up in her chest. The woman smiled and said, “No need for us to open our arms again since they were never closed.”

***Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/11/11/first-100-point-italian-white-wine-is-made-in-stunning-mountainous-area/

Cantina Tramin’s Selection Range
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd
2023 Cantina Tramin, Pinot Grigio Classico Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

2023 Cantina Tramin, Pinot Grigio Classico, Alto Adige, Italy: 100% Pinot Grigio. This is Cantina Tramin’s best seller as it is an incredibly refreshing Pinot Grigio, sourced from vineyards between 650 to 1,300 feet in altitude with a nice amount of concentration but only retails for around $15. Saline minerality and lemon zest on the nose with juicy nectarine fruit on the palate with marked acidity.

All the wines below are part of Cantina Tramin’s Selection Range, showcasing their best vineyards:

2022 Cantina Tramin ‘Unterebner’ Pinot Grigio, Alto Adige, Italy: 100% Pinot Grigio from a vineyard dominated by calcareous soil at almost 2,000 feet in elevation. An extremely impressive Pinot Grigio with very few that reached this high standard of complexity and balance with aromas of Brazil nut and dried apricots with a mineral edge with a creamy texture that is luxurious and balanced by bright acidity with a long, flavorful finish.

2022 Cantina Tramin ‘Stoan’ Alto Adige, Italy: Stoan is a white wine blend of 65% Chardonnay, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Pinot Bianco and 5% Gewürztraminer sourced from vineyards that are located around 2,000 feet and range in soils such as gravelly to rocky and limestone to loamy. Intriguing aromas of fresh tarragon and white pepper with white flowers in the background with crisp acidity and a long, expressive finish with lingering notes of nutmeg. The idea behind this wine was that the world wasn’t ready for a minerally high-acid Chardonnay when they first made it. Hence, they blended it with other white varieties; even though today they make minerally, high-acid Chardonnay wines that the world embraces, this wine had become so popular that they had to keep it.

2020 Cantina Tramin ‘Troy’ Chardonnay, Alto Adige, Italy: 100% Chardonnay. And speaking of minerally, high-acid Chardonnay wines, this is one on a fine wine level, sourced from their top three Chardonnay vineyards with calcareous gravelly dominant soils at around 1,800 feet. Fierce minerality that lets one know this is a Chardonnay of an extremely high caliber that also has an incredible richness of baked apple pie and lemon meringue flavors with a wonderful expression of terroir with the minerality always present, heightened by mouthwatering acidity that goes on and on – a jaw-dropping length of flavor. This could stand up to some of the top cool-climate Chardonnay wines of the world.

2022 Cantina Tramin, Gewürztraminer ‘Nussbaumer’, Alto Adige, Italy: 100% Gewürztraminer. An iconic wine for Cantina Tramin that is Italy’s most awarded Gewürztraminer, and the village of Tramin has ideal climatic conditions for Gewürztraminer: Warm temperatures during the day due to a warming wind and the release of heat from the rocky soil and cooler mountains breezes at night enhanced by high elevations. Also, Tramin gets around 300 days of sunshine per year and limestone, calcareous soils are said to add to the mineral quality of the wines. Stunning golden color with intoxicating multilayered tropical fruit flavors of lychee syrup, mango coulis and grilled pineapple with none of the off-putting bitterness that many other Gewürztraminer wines display, bright acidity lifting all the delicious richness of this decadently elegant wine that illustrates it incredible harmonious quality throughout the persistent finish that leaves dreamy notes of saffron strands, honeysuckle buds and orange blossom in one’s head.

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100-Point Champagne Wine Finds A Perfect Balance Blending Three Outstanding Vintages

Posted on December 2, 2025 by damewine

It wasn’t a typical day in the pristine alpine village where the most powerful people kept vacation homes and the luxurious lifestyles that inhabited this angelic setting were beyond the comprehension of most royalty. Yet on that particular day, electricity filled the air as French military men quickly hiked up the side of the mountain to get to the Eagle’s Nest, known as Kehlsteinhaus in German. It was a grueling task, especially considering these men barely slept, were on the brink of starvation and had already been through many dangerous situations, a few ending in tragedy that would be etched on their souls forever, and it seemed that the Eagle’s Nest would never appear in front of their eyes; some fell on the ground and told their brothers to leave them behind, but no, they helped those up the steep climb, as they would all enjoy the treasures together.

This remarkable mission took place at the end of World War II and Bernard de Nonancourt was one of the soldiers who belonged to the 2nd Armored Division of General Leclerc; he and his men made their way to Hitler’s hidden retreat in Bavaria where he had turned a modest chalet into a lavish compound called the Eagle’s Nest with an enormous bunker system that was connected by several miles of tunnels. The seemingly tranquil village housed vacation homes for high-ranking Nazis; ironically, the picturesque beauty of the town did not represent the horrors that the inhabitants inflicted on others.

Champagne Laurent-Perrier
Photo Credit: Champagne Laurent-Perrier

The men had found around half a million bottles of the best Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne wine, including bottlings of the exquisite Champagne Salon 1928, and it became symbolic of Bernard’s mission in life.

Although Bernard passed away in 2010, his legendary joyful exuberance lives on in the recently released Champagne Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Nº26, garnering a 100-point score as well as being awarded ‘Wine of the Year.’

Grand Siècle

Bernard’s mother was just as remarkable as she bought the Domaine of Laurent-Perrier in Champagne, even though she was a widow with four children. She hoped her eldest son would run Laurent-Perrier, but he never returned from the war. So Bernard, returning from his war journey with an auspicious sign – finding the 1928 Champagne Salon bottles, took over Laurent-Perrier. He would eventually develop a cuvée that would live up to the world’s greatest Champagnes: Grand Siècle, which translates into “Great Century.”

When Grand Siècle first came on the scene in 1959, only a couple of Champagnes were considered at an ultra-premium level, competing with the finest wines in the world, as there seemed to be no market demand for such Champagnes. But Bernard was an early believer that Champagne was more than just an aperitif, as when Champagne is made with the intention of greatness, finding the ideal balance that would elevate it to the same status of worship as an outstanding Burgundy wine, it could compete with the most prestigious fine wines. So, he created a Champagne, blending Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the top Grand Cru vineyards, based on the marriage of three vintages, which were declared vintage years by the house on their release. One vintage would give the depth and complexity, the other would bring the freshness and vitality and the third would seamlessly bring the previous two vintages together as one cohesive, celestial experience.

Last year, the recently released Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Itération N.26 was given a 100-point score by world-renowned wine critic James Suckling, and he also named it his ‘Wine of the Year’ out of a selection of 39,000 bottles. The Grand Siècle Itération 26 blends the 2012, 2008 and 2007 vintages sourced from eight outstanding Grand Cru vineyards from iconic plots such as Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Ambonnay. It is the Champagne that lives up to the ambition of a young man who was courageous enough to go to the Eagle’s Nest, allowing him to drink a 1928 Champagne Salon, inspiring him to make the commitment to one day make a Champagne of the same caliber. There have only been 26 releases of Grand Siècle, and hence, why this is edition 26, so one should jump at the chance to buy one if they are able, and certainly leap at the opportunity for the Grand Siècle Itération N.26, as it reaches new heights when it comes to complexity and elegance.

Historic Values & Forward Future

Lucie Pereyre de Nonancourt
Photo Credit: LEIF CARLSSON

The name Grand Siècle (Great Century) is connected to a golden age in France that goes back to the time of Louis XIV, known as the “Sun King.” He was responsible for commissioning exquisite architecture and enchanting landscape spaces that would be the ideal combination of harmony, balance, and perfection – the same goals Bernard pursued with the creation of Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle.

Today, Bernard’s granddaughter, Lucie Pereyre de Nonancourt, represents Grand Siècle worldwide, and she is educating herself in all aspects of Laurent-Perrier including training with the Cellar Master. She is a powerful force, fiercely standing behind her grandfather’s mission to convince the world that fine Champagne can be just as complex as a stellar Burgundy wine.

Bernard was a charismatic, highly enthusiastic man who spoke his mission into existence; first, with the development of an outstanding Champagne that could go head to head with any fine wine, and second, convincing top wine critics to at least give Grand Siècle that opportunity to compete with the great wines of the world. Both of those missions have become a reality, and his granddaughter is on to the next mission: enlightening consumers of Champagne’s ability for precise and distinctive terroir that, under the guidance of a skilled Cellar Master, can be enhanced by the blending of top vineyards from complementary vintages – becoming greater than the sum of its parts, even when the parts include some of the most prestigious vineyards in Champagne.

***Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/10/30/100-point-champagne-wine-finds-a-perfect-balance-blending-three-outstanding-vintages/

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Itération Nº26 Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

Vintage Champagne:

2012 Laurent-Perrier Vintage Brut Millésimé, Champagne, France: 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. Lemon blossoms, intense minerality and subtle spice on the nose with an overall finesse that is energetic at its core with a long, linear finish.

Grand Siècle Champagnes:

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Itération Nº26, Champagne, France: Blend of 58% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir sourced from eight Grand Cru vineyards; 65% is from the 2012 vintage, 25% from 2008 and 10% from 2007. Awarded 100-point score by world-renowned wine critic James Suckling, and he also named it his ‘Wine of the Year.’ Incredible depth of concentration that is first noted with delectable aromas of honeycomb, marzipan and apricot cobbler with lots of freshness on the palate with lemon curd flavors laced in a saline minerality and a jaw-dropping, extremely prolonged finish with silky textures created by tiny, delicate bubbles caressing the palate.

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Itération Nº23, Champagne, France: Blend of 58% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir sourced from 11 Grand Cru vineyards; 65% is from the 2006 vintage, 20% from 2004 and 15% from 2002. Thrilling, smoky minerality intermixed with mandarin zest and freshly baked bread that has a creamy texture enhanced by ripe nectarine flavors lifted by crisp acidity with a long-lasting note of toasted slivered almonds dancing in one’s head.

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle, Les Réserves, Itération Nº20, Champagne, France: Blend of 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir sourced from 11 Grand Cru vineyards; 60% from the 1999 vintage, 20% from 1997 and 20% from 1996. This is the Les Réserves bottling of the Grand Siècle N.20, which has spent 20 years aging on its lees. Multifaceted nose with enticing notes of puff pastry cream dusted with cocoa powder, lemon tart and toasted coconut that is electrified by sea spray notes and marked acidity and has an extraordinarily long finish that is exhilarating.

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Special Italian Wine Celebrates Comeback After Great Customer Demand

Posted on October 14, 2025 by damewine
Fonterutoli estate
Photo Credit: Marchesi Mazzei

It is hard to imagine that Tuscany was once a desperate area stricken by poverty, desolation and despair, as today it is what dreams are made of. The rolling green hills glow in the Tuscan sun, surrounded by forests filled with olive trees and truffles; small enclaves of towns are made up of buildings that exemplify a warm elegance imitated worldwide. Yet after the back-to-back destruction of WWI and WWII and the upheaval of the financial foundations that the Tuscan countryside depended on, it was a tough time for decades. Many families took their losses and abandoned their lands to seize opportunities for financial success in major Italian cities when the future for those in the country looked bleak.

Yet a few key families in this wine region stayed and helped establish it as one of the greatest in the world, such as the Mazzei family, specifically to the famous wine area known as Chianti Classico. But the Mazzei family, throughout many centuries, has been at the foundation of Chianti’s success, going as far back as 1398 when Ser Lapo Mazzei, a Florentine notary, poet and winemaker, in a letter wrote about “Chianti” as a fine wine, one of the best he had tasted and his granddaughter would go on to marry a man who owned an estate in Chianti Classico named after his family’s surname, Fonterutoli; hence the Castello di Fonterutoli estate has been in the Mazzei family since 1435.

Despite knowing the intrinsic outstanding quality potential of Chianti wines, there were many ups and downs due to governmental and financial instability that the Mazzei family had to weather through almost 600 years with a potential threat to wiping out the Tuscan artisanal way of life during the economic devastation of the post World War II era. The 25th-generation Giovanni Mazzei, who runs the Marchesi Mazzei estates with his father and uncle today, talked about those dark times when most locals saw a lost cause when it came to investing in Tuscany. But others saw an excellent opportunity to get out of a sharecropper mindset of focusing on the quantity of various crops to finally focus on achieving the stellar quality of Tuscan wines and, in the case of the Mazzei family, to bring the glory of Chianti Classico to the world.

Hence, a “revolution” was born, according to Giovanni, and part of that revolution was the idea of planting international grapes made famous in France, such as the Cabernet Sauvignon grape variety.

Concerto di Fonterutoli

Fonterutoli vineyards
Photo Credit: Marchesi Mazzei

The Mazzei’s mission to find the extraordinary potential of Chianti Classico did not happen overnight, as that kind of poverty in a region and lack of recognition takes a few generations to overcome. But the Mazzei family is all about building for the future, several decades are nothing compared to their legacy which goes beyond half a millennium. It took a while to get many other producers on board to produce high-quality Chianti, the smaller area of Chianti Classico representing the ultra-premium top tier of the region, while overcoming the detrimental reputation of cheap Chianti initially exported into the U.S. market. Not only did they become a vital part of establishing the illustrious reputation of the mainly Sangiovese-based wine of Chianti Classico but they also were part of the “Super Tuscan” movement by planting Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1970s. In 1981, they released a wine called Concerto di Fonterutolis, a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

After tasting the first vintage, Giovanni’s grandmother noted that the Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese “play together like a concerto,” and at that moment, they were given the name of this auspicious wine.

The work that Mazzei has placed into truly expressing the outstanding sense of place in their Chianti wines has been quite extraordinary, with having the first gravity-fed cellar in the area, employing intense clonal research into using the ideal Sangiovese clones for each parcel and working with 114 plots across seven sub-zones of Chianti Classico illustrating the elegance of the wine as most plots sit at elevations between 720-1,870 feet – cooler temperatures retaining acidity and aromatics. Albeit, some might say, they did too good of a job as there was such a demand in the premium wine market for their Chianti wines based on Sangiovese that they stopped making the Concerto di Fonterutoli.

Just west of Chianti Classico is the wine area of Bolgheri and it became the place known as the center for “Super Tuscans” as there wasn’t a famous historical wine such as Chianti that would take away from the focus of these experimental wines that blended the glorious, traditional Sangiovese grape with Bordeaux grape varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet. So, for a time, it made sense that the Mazzei family focused on the grape variety that the family has been heralding for 600 years – Sangiovese. They stopped making the Concerto di Fonterutoli after the 1994 vintage.

Honoring A Matriarch

Person holding up a grape bunch Photo Credit: Marchesi Mazzei

The 2011 vintage marked the 30th anniversary of the first vintage of Concerto di Fonterutoli, so after 17 years, the Mazzei family released a tiny production, around 1,000 bottles of the 2011 Concerto di Fonterutoli, allowing the Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon to play together in a beautiful concerto one more time in honor of the great matriarch of the family. To their surprise, there was a huge customer demand as the wine was a rare and distinctive expression of these varieties compared to what was being made in Bolgheri, and they brought back the wine permanently starting with the 2013 vintage; today, they celebrate releasing the 40th anniversary of the 2021.

Concerto di Fonterutoli represents a fantastic experiment between tradition and innovation with the blend of these two grapes and a breathtaking expression of two special parcels. The Sangiovese grapes come from some of their best parcels in the lower part of the Fonterutoli estate with rocky, chalky soil and the Cabernet comes from a tiny plot surrounded by an oak forest that has calcareous rocks, with both sitting around 1,150 feet of elevation; showcasing the individual purity and finesse of each variety that share a special bond of both having a affinity for terroir expression.

All those centuries ago, when that remarkable Florentine Renaissance man, Ser Lapo Mazzei, noted the greatness of the “Chianti” wine back in the late 1300s, he could have never imagined all the upheavals that would happen to his precious world, considered to be the center of culture during that time. And he certainly couldn’t imagine that future generations of his family would survive the darkest of times and be a part of elevating the region to worldwide acclaim.

Or maybe, just maybe, he did know, as he was, after all, a Renaissance man who foretold the glory of Chianti 600 years before it was recognized.

Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/10/20/special-italian-wine-celebrates-comeback-after-great-customer-demand/

Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

Vertical of Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli from 1981 to 2021:

1981 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Garnet color with a complex nose of tarragon and stewed black cherries with a hint of dried oregano and lots of acidity with an ultra-fine texture with electric tart cranberries on the palate with a long aromatic finish with a lingering note of star anise.

1988 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deeper ruby color than the 1981 with a garnet rim with a rich nose with aromas of cocoa dust, a whiff of espresso and crushed rocks with a plush body and silky texture with blackberry fruit intermixed with baking spices.

1994 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. An overall finesse to this beauty with a texture like fine lace with a multifaceted bouquet of rose petals and tar with juicy cassis flavors along the very long finish.

2013 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stunning, pure ruby color that foreshadowed the incredible purity of fruit on the palate with fresh blueberries and warm raspberries with an underlying minerality that brings this wine to another level of elegance.

2015 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The round texture with supple tannins, like ribbons of silk caressing the palate, is impressive, with fresh tobacco notes that balance the generous fruit.

2016 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. An intriguing nose with smoldering earth and graphite that has crunchy blackberry and red currant fruit on the palate with the enticing aroma of a lit cigar ruminating in one’s head for several seconds after the finish.

2018 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Roasted coffee beans with dark chocolate make a delicious start enhanced by flavors of cherry tart on the finish with lingering notes of dried herbs and a smoky minerality.

2019 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. A nose that jolts one into the terroir of the vineyards with notes of tree bark, truffles and forest floor with a lovely richness on the mid-palate with delightful flavors of dark cherry scone and boysenberry cobbler with an exquisite texture that has an extraordinarily long finish that goes on and on and on.

2020 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. A pretty nose of wildflowers and a breathtaking purity of raspberry fruit with an overall harmonious quality with hints of wet river stones with a bright acidity and darker brambly fruit on the palate that finishes with real precision.

2021 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Enchanting rose oil and cinnamon stick aromas lead into a velvety texture with red cherry compote intermixed with a very elegant chalky minerality note with an expressive prolonged finish with an impressive delineation of the aromas and flavors.

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New Wine From Rare Plot Within A Top European White Wine Region

Posted on September 1, 2025 by damewine

For avid collectors of iconic and luxury white wines made from the Riesling grape variety, it will come as no surprise that these are some of the longest-lived wines, easily lasting 50 years in some cases under ideal cellaring conditions. Still, thankfully, for most, they are also wines that can give a profound, ethereal experience much earlier in life.

Ring sculpture at entrance of Grand Cru Kitterlé Photo Credit: Domaines Schlumberger

Three classic countries are known for iconic Riesling wines: Germany, Austria and France. The first two make complete sense, although the third could confuse people, as many well-known varieties trace their home to France, and Riesling might seem out of place. The northeast French region of Alsace (which borders Germany) has gone back and forth between German rule and French rule many times, still showing its German influence in this French area with the architecture-style of the homes, the food, German last names and their ability to make some of the best Riesling as well as producing three other “noble” white varieties.

And an outstanding wine producer, Domaines Schlumberger, one of the oldest wine houses in Alsace with the largest amount of Grand Cru vineyards, has released a special wine from a rare plot that is on its way to becoming the next iconic wine of Alsace: ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling.

‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling

Horse plowing up the slope
Photo Credit:
Domaines Schlumberger

Hardcore Alsace wine collectors will note that a Grand Cru vineyard called ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ does not exist in Alsace and they would be right. The name does not refer to a Grand Cru vineyard but a tiny named parcel that is also a monopole within the Grand Cru vineyard Kitterlé, Schluberger’s best site for Riesling. A monopole is a parcel that is owned entirely by one producer, in this case, Domaine Schlumberger, and this particular Grand Cru monopole reaches a height of over 1,000 feet high in elevation with terraced slopes at 50 degrees, hence why it is known as the “Calf Breaker,” as all of the vineyard management has to be done by hand and it is backbreaking work. The combination of the previously mentioned aspects of this parcel and the fact that volcanic rocks dominate the soils all contribute to producing meager yields that make highly complex, concentrated wines.

So, where does the name Le Clos Saint Léger come from? The name was inspired by the local Saint Léger Church, which had a monk in the 12th century write about the area as a “blessed valley, like a celestial jewel,” representing this wine’s exceptional qualities.

Schlumberger’s Legacy

Séverine Schlumberger and
Thomas Schlumberger
Photo Credit: Domaines Schlumberger

Today, 7th-generation family co-owner Thomas Schlumberger runs Domaines Schlumberger with his sister Séverine, considering that his family has acquired the largest amount of Grand Cru vineyards with four different Grand Crus in total. They both realize they have a big responsibility and do not take it lightly. Thomas expresses deep gratitude for his family’s innate talent for identifying superior sites before the classified system existed and their resiliency to keep those precious sites under the toughest of circumstances.

2017 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling
Photo Credit: Domaines Schlumberger

Thomas and his sister have moved to organic practices to bring more balance to the vines and introduced plowing with a horse (which is better for the environment and reduces soil compaction) and reduced yields, even though the tiny parcel of ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ already has extremely low yields naturally. And when it comes to the release of the special bottling of ‘Le Clos Saint Léger,’ with 2017 being the inaugural vintage, they will hold back vintages until they are ready – Thomas did note that they think 2019 will be released before the 2018 as the 2018 seems like it will take a lot more time. He exclaimed that any vintage that doesn’t reach the highest standards will be skipped regarding the ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ bottling.

The Schlumberger family owns 50 acres of the 64 acres of the Grand Cru Kitterlé area; hence, they are multi-generational experts of this stellar Grand Cru estate, knowing each tiny section of this spectacular site, which is only one of a couple of vineyard sites in Alsace that has this particular volcanic soil. So when they say that the ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel is the best site they have for Riesling, that is saying something remarkable as no one else has the amount of Grand Cru vineyards as they do, and they know most of the Grand Cru Kitterlé site intimately (an extraordinary site that demands extreme viticulture with steep slopes); a special section made by multi-generational experts within an already uniquely great vineyard equals the potential of an iconic wine in the making.

Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/10/13/new-iconic-wine-from-rare-plot-within-a-top-european-white-wine-region/

2019 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

A couple of thousand bottles of the 2017 Domaines Schlumberger’ Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling have been made, with only 300 bottles sent to the U.S.

There are tasting notes for not only the 2017 below but also the 2018, 2019 and 2020, although only the 2017 is on the market in select places with the other vintages being cellared until they are ready to be released; each bottle is hand numbered.

2017 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: 100% Riesling from ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. A fantastic light golden color that glimmers in the light with intoxicating aromas of a smoky minerality, honeysuckle and incredible purity of fruit that has a beautiful richness on the palate balanced by mouthwatering acidity with a textural quality that gives it lift and precision on the long, expressive finish.

2018 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: 100% Riesling from ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. A nose that knocks one’s socks off with delectable notes of freshly made crêpes with lemon curd topped with candied violets that has a fierce backbone of saline minerality and bright acidity with hints of aniseeds dancing in the background.

2019 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: 100% Riesling from ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. A refined nose of wet river stones and juicy apricots with lots of dense fruit, such as caramel peaches, on the palate, balanced by zesty orange rind with a very structured body and a laser-focused finish with crisp acidity.

2020 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: 100% Riesling from ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. An exquisite bouquet of lemon blossom and a hint of jasmine with an underlying note of salty lemon confit and marked acidity bring fierce electricity to this wine with an incredible amount of tension.

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Top Italian White Wines, According To A New York City Master Sommelier

Posted on August 20, 2025 by damewine
Corbuzz Wine Bar in NYC
Photo Credit: Corkbuzz Restaurant & Wine Bar

When Master Sommelier Laura Maniec recommends a wine region that always over-delivers, one listens, as she has been a superstar in the New York City area for well over a decade. One of her numerous accolades was becoming one of 2013’s “Sommeliers of the Year” by Food & Wine Magazine. Today, she is the owner and CEO of Corkbuzz, a NYC wine bar with anywhere up to 50 wines by the glass and four locations with special events and even classes. In a city where it is near impossible to survive past a handful of years, after over 12 years since her Union Square flagship location opened, it is still considered one of the best wine bars in NYC.

Regarding Laura’s go-to region for Italian white wines, she goes to the northeast region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, with Collio being a particular favorite.

“This wine-producing region was one of the first for white wines in Italy that I thought of as premium wines,” noted Laura. Before she founded Corkbuzz, Laura was the wine and spirits director of a large restaurant group that once had four fine-dining Italian restaurants. The wine region Friuli-Venezia Giulia, “or more importantly,” she emphasized, the small high-quality designated area called Collio within the region was where she always went for expensive, premium white Italian wines.

Although they still over-delivered in the premium price category as the prices might have suggested that one is paying for only a very good wine, Collio white wines delivered a much higher outstanding quality, especially compared to other fine white wines from other countries that cost significantly more. Laura knew if a customer wanted an “intense, elegant white wine from Italy” that Collio was the ideal area to suggest. 

Collio DOC

Livon hillside vineyards
Photo Credit:
Azienda Agricola Livon

The winegrowing area of Collio, with the status of DOC as it is deemed a high-quality Italian wine appellation, has a half-moon shape that can be noticed on a map. It enjoys vineyards on slopes gifted with lots of sunlight and winds from the Adriatic Sea that carry warm temperatures that help to grow white wine grapes with concentration, depth, and complexity, with the cooler nights retaining acidity and aromatics. Natural barriers, such as a multitude of forests and the Julian Alps, protect the vineyards from cold winds that could hamper grape maturation. A special quality to the profile of these Collio white wines is the combination of richness with typical notes of minerality and salinity, as usually it is the lean, fiercely acidic wines that display mineral and saline notes. However, the soils of Collio are mainly made up of stratified marl and sandstone, which they call “ponca,” formed around 50 million years ago and are noted for giving it this saline mineral quality.

Livon hilltop vineyard
Photo Credit:
Azienda Agricola Livon

Around a dozen white grape varieties are grown in Collio, including native varieties such as Friulano and Ribolla Gialla and others such as Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio. Yet this is not the Pinot Grigio that dominates the marketplace as it is anything but simple and quaffable – a Collio DOC Pinot Grigio will be multifaceted with incredible depth of flavor and multilayered aromas; this Pinot Grigio makes the case that it is a noble variety meant for premium wine, so for those who want to up their Pinot Grigio game, there is no better place than Collio.

The area has a wealth of history and culture as it borders Slovenia and Austria and was influenced by different iterations of empires, so at various times in the past, the land was controlled by different governing bodies. Many wine producers’ ancestry is a mix of Slovenian, Austrian and Italian cultures, yet they are all bonded as a premium Italian white wine region (when Italian red wines dominate the premium wine conversations) that would never give up on the idea of investing in the highest quality wines, even when the world had no interest.

Members of Cantina Produttori Cormòns
Photo Credit: Cantina Produttori Cormòns

Some of these unrelenting wine warriors are the Muzic family who was first established in 1927, surviving devastating destruction during World War II and today they still have some plots that are 80-year-old vineyards, a cooperative called Cantina Produttori Cormòns that is operated by 120 local winemakers who call themselves a “family of families,” pooling money and resources so that they can afford the ideal practices in the vineyards and cellars, and the Livon family, who a month ago just celebrated their 60th anniversary as the founder’s children and grandchildren are all united in keeping the family passion and dream alive, even going to such great lengths as cellaring some of their top white wines for a few more years before they hit the market, such as their recently released 2021 Friulano.

Ideal Pairing

Laura Maniec spoke about the versatility of Collio white wines in pairing them with food, another reason why it is a go-to for her. But in other ways, it is a great pairing partner for Laura as she started Corkbuzz out of a mission to offer various wine experiences – a deep dive with classes, magical events for special occasions or a food and wine combination that blows one’s mind. Wine wisdom can be the purely sensory experience of a great lineup of wines, or it can be an abundance of knowledge about culture, technique and family stories or a little of both. The wines of Collio can over-deliver in every aspect and transcend most Italian white wine experiences as they awaken the wine drinker’s mind to a whole other level of possibilities.

Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/10/04/top-italian-white-wines-according-to-nyc-master-sommelier/

Lineup of some of the Collio wines
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

2023 Humar, Ribolla Gialla, Collio DOC, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy: 100% Ribolla Gialla. A beautiful Ribolla Gialla wine that shows the lovely qualities of the variety such as floral notes that lean towards citrus blossom and juicy peach flavors on the palate with marked acidity and finishing with a saline minerality.

2023 Cantina Produttori Cormòns, Pinot Bianco, Collio DOC, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy: 100% Pinot Bianco. There are some Pinot Bianco that could go head to head with some of the top elegant Chardonnay wines of the world as it has real weight on the palate that is mouth-filling with a softer acidity than the Ribolla Gialla and the layers of rich fruit flavors such as apple tart and lemon meringue pie has a backbone of intense minerality that takes this wine to the next level.

2023 Muzic, Pinot Grigio, Collio DOC, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy: 100% Pinot Grigio. An outstanding example of a high-quality Pinot Grigio, and yes, they do exist! Complex nose of Brazil nut, wet stones and hint of white pepper with delectable plush apricot fruit and pear crisp with bright acidity and a long, flavorful finish.

Livon Manditocai vineyard
Photo Credit: Azienda Agricola Livon

2021 Livon, Friulano, Manditocai Vineyard, Collio DOC, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy: 100% Friulano. Friulano is known as the grape variety which is the wine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s heart. An enticing nose with aniseeds, almond paste and honeysuckle with a real zingy quality on the palate, along with lemon sorbet flavors and citrus peel that give it an overall refreshing quality.

2023 Ronco Blanchis, Sauvignon Blanc, Collio DOC, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy: 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Such a remarkable purity of fruit with a tropical flavor of ripe mango that dominates with a hint of fresh sage leaf and good weight on the midpalate that balances out the crisp acidity.

2021 Ferlat, Collio Bianco, Collio DOC, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy: Although Collio Bianco can be a blend of varieties, in this case it is 100% Pinot Bianco. Delicious baked apple pie with hazelnut and baking spices with the lingering aromas of warm croissants.

2015 Castello di Spessa, ‘San Serff’ Collio Bianco, Collio DOC, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy: The blend for this wine is not disclosed. This is a wonderful example of how well these Collio wines age, with almost a decade on this wine. A multifaceted nose with a smoky minerality, dried flowers and beeswax with lemon confit on the palate with pineapple upside-down cake and a powerful, focused finish that goes on and on.

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Prestigious Wine Estate’s First Vintage Marks Leaving An Esteemed Bordeaux Classification

Posted on July 14, 2025 by damewine

Panic and turmoil bubbled up in the exquisitely picturesque town filled with medieval Romanesque buildings. In this town, Saint-Émilion, tucked away in the Right Bank of the Bordeaux wine region of France, there were going to be three significant omissions in the distinguished St.-Émilion wine classification, established in 1955. Three out of the four top-ranking wine estates had decided to remove themselves from the classification and one in particular, Château Angélus, was the only estate to work itself up all the different levels of the classification, increasing quality to such a degree that it was finally listed as a Premier Grand Cru Classé A in 2012.

Château Angélus is celebrating the liberation from the classification by placing a special edition of the 2022 vintage on the market as a future that will arrive in 2025. And considering that 2022 is an excellent vintage for Saint-Émilion estates in particular excelling as well as a unique bottling design for the 2022 Château Angélus, featuring real 20-carat gold and mother of pearl, it is going to be a must-have bottle for Bordeaux collectors. Yet luckily, the second wine of Château Angélus, Le Carillon d’Angélus, will be released in November of this year.

Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal with her father Hubert de Boüard de Laforest
Photo Credit: Château Angélus

However, there have been many controversies throughout the years, as the 2006 classification was challenged by a few producers who were demoted. Then, in 2012, a few more producers claimed there were procedural errors in the selection process. Although Château Angélus climbed to the highest status of the classification, Premiers Grand Crus Classés A, it was time for them to leave: fellow estate owners were crossing the street to avoid each other in the beautiful town of Saint-Émilion because of bitter resentment and the owner/winemaker of Château Angélus, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, and his daughter Stéphanie, felt that they didn’t want to be constrained by the classification in regards to expressing the pure terroir for each vintage. Hubert still respects the St.-Émilion Classification and thought they had always done a good job but the contentiousness that has only grown over time in his beloved birthplace of Saint-Émilion was a toxic energy taking too much focus away from his estate, so it was time to leave.

St.-Émilion Classification

Bell on top of Château Angélus Photo Credit: Château Angélus

The most famous wine classification is the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, which only lists wines located on the Left Bank, such as Château Lafite Rothschild. The Right Bank of the Bordeaux wine region, specifically in St.-Émilion, created its own classification in 1955. Instead of having the classification carved in stone (with a couple of exceptions), they decided to reevaluate the classified châteaux by checking their vineyards and a decade of vintages of their wines every ten years; it is the only classified wine area in Bordeaux that does such constant rigorous work in making sure that each spot is continually earned.

At the time, Château Angélus noted in a press release, “Once a source of progress, the Saint-Émilion classification has become a vehicle for antagonism and instability.” While they regretted the “deleterious context,” they were given no choice but to take “note of it.” 

A New Milestone

The de Boüard family has been in Bordeaux since the mid-1500s, and in the early 1900s, they acquired vineyards in St.-Émilion that included the section of vines that is known as Angélus. That section was always known to have outstanding potential but it is recognized that the Château Angélus wines did not live up to that potential until Hubert came back to his family’s estate in the 1980s after studying with the legendary enologist and researcher Émile Peynaud. The 1989 vintage was an excellent success for Château Angélus and many wine critics saw it as a rising star. Today, it is a well-established star that has reached the ultimate height in classification status.

Horse with Château Angélus
Photo Credit: Château Angélus

When it comes to the presentation of the design of the bottles, there have been three very important renditions that are rooted in the soul of Château Angélus. There is the historical label with the bell on it, which is known on the bottles of most vintages, as Château Angélus is in a natural amphitheater overlooked by three Saint-Émilion churches that would ring their angelus bells during time of prayer, letting the people working in the vineyards know it was a time for a short rest to reflect on the meaning of living a purposeful life.

Today, that bell holds an important meaning for Hubert and his daughter Stéphanie as it reminds them that they should never lose sight of the real work needed to make outstanding wines and always keep their minds steady on that primary purpose.

***Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/09/29/prestigious-wine-estates-first-vintage-marks-leaving-an-esteemed-bordeaux-classification/

2022 Château Angélus
Photo Credit: Château Angélus

The second bottling edition was for the 2012 vintage, which celebrated their Premiers Grand Crus Classés A promotion in the Saint-Émilion classification and it was a stunning bottle with a raised gold inscription replacing the traditional paper label. Now, with the 2022 bottling, featuring real 20-carat gold and mother of pearl designed to represent astral constellations as in the words of Hubert’s daughter, Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, illustrates their “unique path by freeing” Château Angélus from “certain constraints.” This bottling marks them entering another dimension that places them on a “quest for excellence” down to every little detail.

In a way, they have come full circle with a fierce recommitment to the values that Château Angélus was founded on, relentless work to accomplish a higher goal greater than any one person or organization. But today, their vineyards are managed with precise, organic practices spearheaded by Stéphanie and a high-tech winery with minimal intervention methods employed. Just like Hubert brought a new era for Château Angélus when he first started, his daughter has been doing the same since she joined full-time in 2012. Hubert made Château Angélus a star, and it seems that Stéphanie is aiming beyond the stars.

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The Wine Vintages That Overdeliver From Tuscan Red Wine Producer Grattamacco

Posted on June 28, 2025 by damewine

The growing season of 2008 in the now famous area of Bolgheri, in Tuscany, Italy, was indeed a pleasure for chief winemaker Luca Marrone in every way, especially compared to his first vintage at Grattamacco, the pioneering, admirable Super Tuscan wine producer. He was unlucky to first deal with the extremely hot 2003 vintage when European producers weren’t used to such high temperatures. But in a way, 2003 threw him in the deep end right from the beginning and prepared him for anything that would come in the future, and a winemaker never knows what each year will bring. Five years after the 2008 growing season, with its moderate temperatures, 2013 turned out to be another gift to Luca, as not only did it avoid giving him the stress of a 2003 vintage but the wines showcased an incredible purity and vibrancy that made them stunning after at least 11 years worth of aging, in the case of the 2008 bottling, 16 years later.

Luca Marrone
Photo Credit: Stefano Casati

Yet both 2008 and 2013 vintages were underrated, in Luca’s opinion, and as one tastes these wines today, their outstanding qualities certainly bear out the truth.

As Luca Marrone learned from one of his mentors, Giulio Gambelli, considered one of the great masters of the Sangiovese grape yet also taught profound lessons that could be applied to working with various grape varieties, that one should never be immediately wowed by overwhelming power in a wine but to strive to make wines that didn’t wear a heavy mask; as if it had nothing to hide and everything to give.

Looking To Nature

“In nature, you always have the answer,” Gambelli would tell Luca whenever he felt that a wine was missing something.

Although the 2008 and 2013 vintages were exactly the pure expressions of wines that Gambelli would think of as being the best, since they weren’t very ripe, powerfully structured wines, they were still undervalued as they didn’t give an immediate punch on release that creates a lot of hype and buzz about a vintage.

Punching down the grape skins in the Grattamacco winery
Photo Credit: Stefano Casati

In the case of 2013, Luca thought there was too little structure, and despite being overtly enthusiastic about the remarkable purity of fruit, for balance, he needed to give the wines a small amount of tannic structure. Now, there are a few ways a winemaker can add tannins to the wines, but when it came to Luca’s choice, he first thought about what Gambelli said about looking to nature when a winemaker is trying to balance the wine. And so, Luca used a method based on how the Ripasso wines are made in the prestigious Italian wine area of Valpolicella, which is in the Veneto region.

The Ripasso wines use a double fermentation technique where the first fermentation turns the grapes into wine. Then, that wine is placed through a second fermentation process that is activated by adding skins from previous wine production. But instead of using previously fermented skins, Luca sacrificed some of his top-quality grapes to add a multifaceted structure to his 2013 wines, and the finished product is outstanding.

Expanding To Higher Vineyards

White clay in Grattamacco vineyards
Photo Credit: ColleMassari Wine Estates

Grattamacco is known for its vineyards on Grattamacco Hill, which is about 330 feet in elevation and has a significant dominance of white clay in the soil. Besides the clay being highly beneficial during the hot vintages, as it has a great capacity to retain water, it also gives a unique quality to the Grattamacco wines that proved itself while it was part of a three year research project at U.C. Davis which showed a distinct difference in analysis between the grapes from Grattamacco compared to other top Bolgheri wine producers.

Yet their rare terroir has been expanded by adding a special plot that Grattamacco bought, 325 feet above the Grattamacco Hill, a place with its own microclimate. It is a tiny haven that is called Casa Vecchia, where they have planted 25 acres of vines starting in 1998, surrounded by forests, being one of the first to pioneer this site that grows grapes with a harmonious quality, incredible freshness, intense power and aromatic complexity. A few other top Bolgheri wine producers have planted a few acres here and there but there is no more room to plant, and Grattamacco has planted the most vines in this little oasis.

Grattamacco vineyards are located on some of the highest hills in Bolgheri
Photo Credit: Stefano Casati

As the vines have matured in Casa Vecchia, Luca has used more and more in their top red wine, the Bolgheri Rosso Superiore.

Pioneering To Reinforce Values

Luca talked about the rare qualities of his boss, the owner of Grattamacco, Claudio Tipa, as a man who is not afraid to take giant leaps to pioneer a new path, raising the bar for higher quality. Yet, he never strays from the values of the original owner, Piermario Meletti Cavallari. As Piermario reached his golden years, he had no one to take over his precious Grattamacco estate so he decided to lease it for ten years to Claudio, who was extremely interested in the property in 2002. Within five years, Piermario could see the passion Claudio placed into the estate, making fantastic wines by going to significant lengths within the vineyards and winery. Piermario sold Claudio the estate with still five more years of his lease to go, as he had found the right person to carry on his legacy.

Whether it is working organically and biodynamically, searching for special sites, sacrificing grapes to allow a very good vintage to become an excellent one or keeping the wine fresh and elegant during trends for big, overripe wines, Claudio Tipa allows Luca to do whatever it takes to live up to the original owner’s dream. And it is a rare man who pioneers for the sake of someone else’s legacy instead of his own ego, as Claudio knows Grattamacco is bigger than any one person. It takes a rare person to truly appreciate a rare estate, where even the vintages with less hype can be superstars in their own right.

Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/09/20/the-wine-vintages-that-over-deliver-from-tuscan-red-wine-producer/

Grattamacco Vertical
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

1991 Grattamacco, Vino da Tavola di Castagneto, Bolgheri, Tuscany: The classification which is known today as Bolgheri Rosso Superiore wasn’t approved until 1994, hence why this 1991 is under the classification of Vino da Tavola di Castagneto. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Sangiovese. The 1991 is a great example of an underrated vintage that has held up beautifully for 33 years. It has stunning vitality and overall freshness with layers of complex notes such as broken earth, dried herbs and worn leather balanced with pure red cherry fruit flavors and a saline finish. An underrated vintage that over delivers.

1995 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. 1995 was one of the top three vintages of the ’90s and it is undoubtedly a stunner with an aromatic nose filled with a bouquet of dried flowers and hints of incense with a plusher body with rich red cherry pie and blackberry preserve flavors yet it does not seem better than the 1991, only different.

2008 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. One of the underrated vintages with cooler weather and no extreme events during the growing season with a lovely brightness with aromas of blackcurrant leaves and freshly picked raspberries with an underlying note of stony minerality. An underrated vintage that over delivers.

2009 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. 2009 was a very warm, dry summer but the white clay in the Grattamacco vineyards helped as it had retained plenty of water from the previous rain to keep the vines healthy. Dark, brooding fruit with layers of licorice and lavender sea salt with lots of density on the palate and rich blueberry tart flavors.

2012 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany : Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. A hot year, but Grattamacco was still able to produce wines with freshness and vitality, and Luca says it indicates how well their organic and biodynamic practices keep the vines balanced even in extreme years. Opulent mulberry compote and blackberry scones with touches of fresh tarragon with lush texture yet lots of mouthwatering acidity.

2013 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. A cooler vintage that was underrated like the 2008 but shows grace and aristocratic-level elegance with vibrant red raspberries, a touch of spice with rose oil and finely etched tannins that has a long finish with an overall finesse. An underrated vintage that over delivers.

2016 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. A very warm vintage that made ripe, big, powerful wines yet the Grattamacco freshness and precision is still present. Deliciously decadent with black cherry cobbler flavors and baking spices balanced by complex notes of asphalt and graphite intermixed with wild Mediterranean herbs with an ultra-smooth texture and long length of flavor.

2021 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. Wine Spectator has already said that the 2021 vintage, “might be the best vintage in Tuscany’s modern era,” and this wine is already showing an outstanding quality with captivating aromas of smoldering earth, forest floor and candied violets combined with tantalizing flavors of cherries jubilee and blackberry syrup drizzled over spice cake with a silky texture and ultra-fine tannins with a very long finish.

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Champagne Wine Made By Top Pinot Noir And Chardonnay Vineyards For 150th Anniversary

Posted on June 4, 2025 by damewine
Champagne Pommery’s cellar
Photo Credit: Champagne Pommery

The large bang followed by a geyser of flying liquid, carrying with it the much more dangerous shards of glass, startled the visitors to such a point that some were shaking. But that didn’t keep people from coming back and bringing family and friends as it was the most exciting journey that took them over 100 feet below the surface as they descended the 116 steps to a heavenly cavernous world filled with epic tableaux sculpted into the chalk walls. Such an experience could only be created by a massive corporation with immense resources. Still, no, this remarkable experience, one of the most thrilling for the times, was made possible by one woman, a widow in the late 1800s in the sparkling wine region of Champagne.

A tableau carved into the Pommery cellar walls
Photo Credit: Champagne Pommery

In 1868, Madame Pommery started the expansive construction project of the century in Reims, within the now legendary Champagne wine growing area in France. It would not only go deep within the thick layers of earth made up mainly of chalk but it would span over 11 miles in length. As a great admirer of art, she would commission an artist to carve out legendary scenes that seemed to come alive within the chalk wall as people held up candles around these sculpted illustrations as visitors came through the tunnels underneath Champagne Pommery estate. Yet, during those times, how to create the shape of a Champagne bottle with thicker glass was not yet invented, so the pressure of the bubbles would make some bottles randomly explode. So, Madame Pommery devised the clever idea of giving visitors fencing masks to protect themselves from such incidences.

And then she outdid herself, in 1874, by releasing an iconic bottle of Pommery Brut Champagne, as up until that time, most sparkling Champagne wines had a significant amount of sugar added as a preservative and Champagne was thought of as a dessert wine; Madame Pommery established the seemingly dry style of Brut Champagne which is now enjoyed before or during a meal, or simply on its own.

And to celebrate such a momentous occasion, the Vranken family, who owns Champagne Pommery today, led by another impressive woman, Nathalie, with her daughter Pauline by her side, is releasing a special cuvée called Apanage 1874.

Apanage 1874

Champagne Pommery ‘Apanage 1874’ Brut NV Photo Credit:
Cathrine Todd

Six years ago, the cellar master of Champagne Pommery, Clément Pierlot, was given the task and great honor by Nathalie Vranken to make a special bottling of Champagne that would honor the incredible achievements of Madame Pommery. The cellar master made a cuvée that mainly consisted of great vintages from 2018, 2015 and 2012, as well as an additional 18% of much older wines held in reserve in the Pommery cellars to add depth and complexity. Used in the blend are mainly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from top vineyards such as those from Premier or Grand Cru sites or rare properties that include a portion of wine from the walled vineyard Les Clos Pompadour, located on Pommery’s estate, which is among the great walled vineyards of the Champagne wine region representing some of the most sought after bottles in the world. Clément says that the Apanage 1874 is in keeping with the great traditions of the House as it combines the “delicacy and precision of a modern creation with the depth and complexity of the Pommery heritage.”

Madame Pommery has always been a great patron of the arts and her artists’ commissions made the Pommery cellars look like an exquisite art gallery. The current family owner, Nathalie Vranken, has that same intense passion for art and she has been organizing annual exhibitions for the past 20 years with contemporary art called EXPERIENCE POMMERY. She showcases artists from all over the globe, more than 300 artists have been showcased, within Pommery’s Gallo-Roman cellars and the Pommery estate has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015.

Pommery Victorian-style estate Photo Credit: Champagne Pommery

Art has always been a driving force in Nathalie’s life and everything about Pommery, the innovation to excel with making sparkling Champagne wine, the gorgeous Pommery Victorian-style estate with Gallo-Roman cellars and the dedication to art for over a century, represents everything she loves about her favorite artists: innovation, excellence, commitment, beauty and soul. Yet recently, other famous Champagne houses have also taken on art projects and Nathalie thought that perhaps it was time to stop her art exhibition at Pommery as it seemed the combination of art and Champagne was everywhere now. For a brief moment, she questioned herself, saying, “Is this it? Am I done?” then, the minute she said it, that passion reignited within her and she fiercely stated, “No, I want to do it forever.”

And so, she called her latest exhibition “Forever,” bringing in many of the past creative works of art that have thrilled guests over the years. At the center of the exhibition is a gigantic sculpture in the shape of a pink heart that represents a heart that beats forever. The heart started with Madame Pommery and today it continues with Nathalie, 150 years of devotion that would transport Champagne lovers to a world of radiance and magic. 

Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/09/14/champagne-wine-made-by-top-pinot-noir-and-chardonnay-vineyards-for-150th-anniversary/

Champagne Pommery ‘Apanage 1874’ Brut NV Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

Champagne Pommery ‘Apanage 1874’ Brut NV: Mainly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from top Grand Cru and Premier Cru sites as well as from Pommery’s unique Les Clos Pompadour with a small percentage of Pinot Meunier. A true multi-vintage Champagne with the best vintages over the past 15 years making up the majority of the blend: 2018, 2015 and 2012. Another 18% of older reserve wines add a multifaceted complexity to make this bottling worthy of the incredible milestone it is celebrating. An enchanting nose of freshly baked brioche with hints of hazelnut and white flowers that has such fine bubbles that it creates a creamy texture on the palate with bright lemon curd flavors with peach crumble richness balanced by crisp acidity with a long, expressive mineral-laced finish.

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Dry White Wine Made By The Greatest Sweet Wine Region

Posted on April 12, 2025 by damewine
Oremus cellar
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

Through the dim lighting of the underground vaulted caves, the most precious treasures of amber-tinted liquid gold could be seen tucked away in glorious arching shelves carved into the wall. This underground network of caves, with corridors in between, was created over 400 years ago during a time when it was nestled in a kingdom that was outside of the most powerful European empire. As much of that power since that time has fallen, much of the glory and sphere of influence these empires wielded eventually seemed to dissipate into the air, leaving grand buildings that recall those grander times, yet other treasures were lost. But not this particular set of treasures gleaming in wine bottles radiating out a heavenly glow, as when the term “liquid gold” is used, no other wine can come close to this uniquely exquisite sweet wine called Tokaji after the region of its birth.

In modern times, one of the great European red wine visionaries had come to visit this enchantingly old world place within the countryside of the country of Hungary, once the Kingdom of Hungary outside of the Holy Roman Empire until it became a powerful force with the emergence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Then WWI and WWII rocked the Western world, with Hungary under Communist control until it came crumbling down in 1989. The fall of communism was an exciting time for the Hungarian people but it made the country vulnerable in some ways; one of those threats could have been the loss of their Tokaji dessert wines that kings and queens adored. These wines are made in the most painstaking way both in the vineyards and the cellar, as the amount of money and manpower it takes to make one glass makes such an enterprise not profitable enough to be worthwhile.

And so, that visionary, who was part of a handful of family-owned ultra-premium wine producers, was invited to purchase a historical wine estate that held within its land and cellars the precious history where Hungary excelled.

Enraptured by Liquid Gold

Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

The sun cast a shadow of gleaming gold light on the white linen tablecloth, beckoning one of the greatest Spanish wine producers to taste this exceptional wine, a wine whose description had intrigued him so much that he had taken the long journey just for the opportunity to taste a vertical going back to the year 1866. It was one of the most remarkable wine experiences he had ever had, and that is saying something since the gentleman is none other than Pablo Álvarez, owner of Vega Sicilia, producer of Unico – one of the most excellent and sought after red wines of the world, a man who has tasted all the top wines around the globe as well as making one himself.

Pablo Álvarez
Photo Credit: Tempos Vega Sicilia

That special 1866 vintage sweet wine was a Tokaji Eszencia from a venerable estate called Oremus, the sweetest of all the Hungarian Tokaji wines. Still, it is more than just sweetness, as it is a concentration of a remarkable expression of place and complexity wrapped up in the most exquisite texture known to man. It was coveted by such historical legends as Catherine the Great and King Louis XIV, and no other sweet wine has ever been its equal. But Hungary, being isolated from the world by the iron curtain of communism, kept this rare golden beauty a hidden gem, and even today, it is not widely known among enthusiastic wine drinkers.

So Pablo Álvarez, owner of Vega Sicilia, had quite a dilemma in front of him, as he didn’t think he would even consider buying an estate in Hungary but decided to accept the invitation because he knew what it was like when people didn’t take his own wine region, Ribera del Duero, seriously until he brought Vega Sicilia back to its glory. But now he found himself swept away by these wines; there was not only the Eszencia but also the Puttonyos Aszú wines and the Late Harvest, each decreasing in sweetness and intensity as well as price, all of which were bewitching in their own way.

Working the Oremus Vineyards in Tokaj
Photo Credit: Tempos Vega Sicilia

The last thing he needed was to have such a responsibility of an ancient estate in another country, as Pablo Álvarez has made Vega Sicilia what it is by his obsession for excellence, always striving to improve every little facet and refusing to release any vintage unless it reaches the extremely high bar that he has set. Pablo is even growing oak trees intended for all the barrels and corks for the Vega Sicilia wines, taking the idea of terroir expression of an estate to an extraordinary level.

And for Pablo, it was all or nothing; he would either buy this ancient estate in Tokaj, Hungary and completely give up his little bit of downtime, or he would graciously turn down the offer and close the door on a special piece of wine history. He felt that the former was the only option he could live with; if the estate fell into ruin, he would always regret it.

Vines in the Oremus Vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary during Winter
Photo Credit: Tempos Vega Sicilia

Yet, this mission would be different, as it was not just about restoring the estate to its prestigious sweet wine reputation; he realized that the dry white wines from his estate were lovely. He discovered that the Oremus vineyards were classified as a “Primae Classis” in 1772, which can be equated to a first growth property in Bordeaux, so the multifaceted aromatic and flavors with an intense sense of place translate to the dry white wines too. He then decided to seek out the best vineyards for stellar dry white wine and he called on a good friend, Véronique Drouhin – part of the distinguished Burgundy Drouhin wine family, to recommend a viticulturist to pick the ideal plots and use precision vineyard management geared towards producing a top dry white wine. The single vineyard Petrács showed itself as the best of their vineyards for this purpose and now, Pablo is showing the world that Tokaj, Hungary, can make white wines on a level with some of the best in the world.

Hindsight

Vega Sicilia Unico Reserva Especial
Photo Credit: Tempos Vega Sicilia

If not for the dedication of such a fierce visionary as Pablo, Vega Sicilia would have easily been a lost treasure, a footnote in the history of Spanish wine as a once great winery that eventually disappeared in a sea of mediocrity. Still, one man made sure that that didn’t happen. Today, fine wine collectors of the top Bordeaux and Napa wines worldwide will go to great lengths to seek out various vintages of Vega Sicilia’s Unico. Depending on the vintage, Unico will outshine other wines in their collection.

And from time to time, those collectors today travel across the world to come in some of the top restaurants in Spain to taste an incredible vertical of Unico. Sometimes, Pablo will break out bottles of Oremus sweet wines and those who like to end on a sweet note love those wines. And sometimes, on a rare occasion, he will present a bottle of his Oremus dry white wine from the single vineyard of Petrács before the tasting starts. Many scoff at such a notion but once in a while, there is that one wine collector who, with joyous abandonment, accepts a glass of the single vineyard Petrács dry white wine. And then he realizes, right there at that moment, that he is drinking something exceptional that is being dismissed by his wine-collecting crew.

Oremus vineyards in Tokaj during sunset
Photo Credit: Tempos Vega Sicilia

There was a time when many fine wine drinkers thought of Vega Sicilia as a once great ghost from the past, declining in quality at the beginning of the second half of the 20th century, speculating that perhaps it was never as great as it was since it wasn’t judged by the standards of present times. Yet when Pablo Álvarez’s family bought Vega Sicilia in 1982, investing a tremendous amount of time and money into the winery, the world discovered that not only were the wines as great as they were reported to be in the past, but they seemed to surpass even its former reputation as the word “great” couldn’t do the wines justice.

At the beginning of Pablo’s journey of placing all his energy and time into making Vega Sicilia wines the best wines in the world, some doubted if the winery would reach such a lofty goal. But for those who believed from the very beginning, buying the wines and being the true fans and original collectors of Vega Sicilia under its second visionary, Pablo Álvarez, they benefited from their hindsight as well as their courage to go with their gut and against the consensus of the time.

And one day, that may happen for Oremus, not just the sweet wines, which already have a dedicated following of those who appreciate the sweet wines of Tokaj, Hungary, but those who take the leap with its potential for producing premium single vineyard white wines that are vibrant, complex and filled with a unique sense of place that will show the world that there was one premium white wine region they have missed.

Pablo helped to make Ribera del Duero one of the greatest red wine regions in the world and he has now placed his sights on doing the same for the dry white wines of Tokaj, Hungary.

***Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/08/30/the-greatest-sweet-wine-region-makes-premium-dry-white-wine/

2020 Oremus ‘Petrács’ Tokaji Dry White Wine, Tokaj, Hungary: 100% Furmint. Whimsical notes of honeysuckle and citrus blossom with a core of intense minerality with mouthwatering acidity and a very long, expressive finish lifted by hints of lemon confit and sea spray.

2021 Oremus ‘Mandolás’ Tokaji Dry, Tokaj, Hungary: 100% Furmint. Fennel fronds and white pepper delight the nose with pineapple custard flavors and a softer acidity than the Petrács, with the purity of little white wildflower notes lingering in one’s head.

Oremus, Tokaji Late Harvest
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

2022 Oremus, Tokaji Late Harvest, Tokaj, Hungary: A blend of Furmint, Sárgamuskotály and Kövérszőlő. This is the first level of sweet wines in the Oremus lineup with 113g/l of residual sugar. Wafting aromas of warm apple strudel freshly made with spice cake and zingy orange peels balanced by intense acidity. Several passes are made through the vineyard during the harvest but only bunches containing at least 50% botrytized grapes are selected. After destemming, the berries are left to macerate for 4-12 hours before pressing, emphasizing the noble rot.

2017 Oremus, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

2017 Oremus, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Tokaj, Hungary: A blend of Furmint, Zéta and Sárgamuskotály; a couple of levels more in sweetness with 178g/l of residual sugar. Enticing smoky minerality with grilled pineapple, lemon meringue and candied violets with a rich texture brightened by marked acidity. This wine is made the same way as it was made centuries ago, adding to the must 5 baskets (puttonyos) containing 25 kg of botrytized Aszú berries, picked grape by grape. The grapes are left to macerate for 12-24 hours until they swell and are then gently pressed. Fermentation takes place in new Hungarian oak barrels. It is a slow process that can take up to a month. The wine is aged for two or more years in 136 and 220-liter barrels, followed by 2-3 years in bottle.

2012 Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

2012 Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia, Tokaj, Hungary: A blend of Furmint, Hárslevelü, Zéta, and Sárgauskotály. Eszencia has been called the nectar of the gods and Oremus considers it their soul. The sweetest wine at 569g/l of residual sugar with only 3% alcohol. This wine epitomizes sensuality in a glass with a luscious body and irresistible flavors of marmalade, rosehip syrup and quince paste with a saline minerality, stunning purity and focus on the finish with a length of superb flavor.

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Pinot Noir Winemaker Who Has Worked For Famous Wine Brands Makes His Own Wines

Posted on April 12, 2025 by damewine
Coastlands Vineyard
Photo Credit: Cobb Wines

She was a vision of strength, freedom and unassuming beauty, and the sun highlighted the warm colors in her hair as she dug through the ground to make a hole for the wide selection of 18 clones of the lesser-known Pinot Noir grape. It was a grape that made wines that didn’t have the big structure and power of the more widely preferred Cabernet Sauvignon at that time. But she had no interest in following the obvious path carved out by those around her as she was an adventurer at heart. She shaped surfboards for Hobie in the 1950s, flew airplanes to spot swordfish for fishermen and was the art director for Practical Vineyard and Winery magazine for a quarter of a century. So finally, she and her husband were going to find their own way on their Sonoma Coast property in California, only three miles from the Pacific Ocean.

In 1989, the next adventure was to plant a vineyard of Pinot Noir with her marine biologist husband, far earlier than the start of the Pinot Noir trend that made the grape a craze for premium drinkers looking for a red wine with finesse and an enchanting bouquet. And so, they found the perfect sanctuary for their vines within a thicket of Bay Laurel trees where an old oak majestically held court with the numbers 1906 carved into it, most probably noting the devastating earthquake in San Francisco in 1906.

At that moment, their son Ross, who was going to college, was helping out with the vineyard work to earn some extra spending money. He dreamed of becoming a professional musician and traveled around with his band while studying agroecology at the University of Santa Cruz, focusing on soil science. He had no intention at that time of becoming a winemaker or taking over his parent’s vineyards as it was a passion project that only included an acre and a half of carefully selected Pinot Noir clones that were planted on their own roots (ungrafted).

A few of Ross Cobb’s records
Photo Credit: Cobb Wines

But at a certain point, life puts one at a crossroads – Ross decided to go down the path of not only working with vineyards but also learning whatever he could about winemaking. He went on to work for some of the most respected wine producers in Sonoma, which ranged from large to medium to small in size, getting experience with various styles and grape varieties. Finally, small-lot, site-specific Pinot Noir wines ended up becoming his ultimate obsession with his own label, Cobb Wines.

Open To Endless Possibilities

When it comes to music, Ross has every conceivable type of music on vinyl and he believes he has around 8,000 records, but he lost count. And there is no order to where they are placed so he loves to grab one and let that decide what he listens to next. Some of the records represent his music tastes at different stages of his life and some are records he was given for free, sometimes a collection of music he wasn’t a massive fan of, as a collector needed to move and give them away. It is very representative of Ross’s open spirit and viewpoint that most things have something valuable to give as long as one can be open to it. 

For a time, Ross was the same with wine, looking to learn as much as possible from a wide range of experiences. His first job was working with Ferrari-Carano in 1994 and he set up their first soil lab. It was an incredible experience for a young man to learn how to make premium wine on a large scale. Since he was looking for a wide range of experiences, he worked for Randall Grahm at the small operation of Bonny Doon Vineyard, located in Santa Cruz, two hours south of Sonoma. Randall pioneered working with Rhône grape varieties in California and experimented with unknown grapes and methods of production. And so, Ross couldn’t have picked two places that were more opposite regarding the wealth of knowledge and experience gained.

Eventually, he gained experience with small, well-respected Pinot Noir winemakers along the Sonoma Coast, starting with Williams Selyem, becoming the viticulturist and enologist. He then became associate winemaker at Flowers Winery, working under the brilliant Hugh Chappelle until Ross took over as head winemaker. He then helped launch Hirsch Vineyards’ own label as he had built a relationship with the owner, David Hirsch. He was the head winemaker there until his daughter Jasmine Hirsch took over.

Budbreak at Doc’s Vineyard
Photo Credit: Cobb Wines

While Ross was making his way through the wine business, his parents started selling that special block of Pinot Noir grapes to Burt Williams, one of the founders of Williams Selyem, which was first planted in 1989. When Burt came out to taste the different Pinot Noir clones that were located in their tiny vineyard with Ross’s parents, they decided that a clone called Jackson 16, which is believed to have been discovered in California back in the late 1800s, tasted the best to their palates so the Cobbs expanded their vineyard with more plantings of Jackson 16. They continued to plant another 12 and a half acres down the hill on their property, a total of 14 acres, and became a source for premium Sonoma Pinot Noir wine producers.

Remarkably, the original vines planted in 1989, which are on their own roots, have not had to be irrigated for around 25 years.

Laser Focus

Ross still loves a wide variety of music and is pulled towards whatever moves him but when it comes to wine, he has become quite laser-focused. For years, while working his day job at another winery, he made minuscule batches of wine from his family’s property. Once he could give up his day job to focus on making his own wines under his family name, he finally could go deep into truly knowing the multitude of facets of each tiny plot of their vineyards. Along the way, he became quite enamored with the sense of place that top, small Burgundy wine producers could express in their wines. So, no matter how tight money was, he would jump on a plane with a backpack and visit producers, bringing a wide array of great California Pinot Noir wines. He was welcomed to many a wine producer’s home and they were fascinated to learn from him but he felt he was lucky to take in everything they had shared from centuries of generational knowledge.

He returned to Burgundy 14 times, even when other wine producers were telling him to go somewhere else, he just became enraptured with the Burgundian wines and the ability to capture the essence of a tiny section of a vineyard. He wanted to achieve that high degree of expression of place from his family vineyards, knowing that Pinot Noir was the ideal vessel as it has an affinity for terroir expression, and eventually expanded that mission by sourcing from other vineyard sites.

The Imprint of Courage 

Another Coastlands Vineyard
Photo Credit: Cobb Wines

Ross’s family vineyards are named Coastlands Vineyard but he makes a special bottling, sourcing grapes only from his mother’s original plantings. He has been doing experiments with their favorite Pinot Noir clone, Jackson 16, and not only had his parents, as well as the late great Burt Williams, loved the aromatic and flavor profile that this grape gives to wine but it also seems that it might be resistant to a pest called phylloxera. Over a century ago, this pest devastated the vineyards of Europe and can cause havoc anywhere that has European grape vines, such as Pinot Noir, in the ground. The only precaution that seems to be almost 100% effective against this pest is grafting the European vines onto American rootstock, so that is why the Cobbs’ first vineyard planted its Pint Noir on its own roots is unique.

Ross says that they go to great lengths to ensure that phylloxera doesn’t infest their soil, and it helps that their vineyard is pretty isolated, with only two other vineyards within a two-mile radius and neither of those has the pest. But it is still something to worry about so if the Jackson 16 clone is resistant to phylloxera then he could plant all his vineyards with own-rooted vines. He says that maybe his daughter, who is currently 15 years old, may want to take on that project and come up with one of the most significant wine discoveries of the century.

At the time, when Ross saw his mother being the fierce, adventurous woman she was, planting those vines with his father, he couldn’t completely take in how precious a moment it was, as he was a college-aged young man who was trying to figure out who he was as an individual and grappling with the pressure of having to quickly figure out what he wanted to do with his life. But that is the reality for so many; it is only later in life when those memories slow down and linger and one sees the most poignant aspects of life with more clarity while everything else that seemed overwhelming disappears. Ross could have taken a much more secure, guaranteed path as a winemaker but he wanted to learn more, grow more and spend more time delving into unlocking the secrets to making Pinot Noir wines from his family site that brings the drinker to another level as those great Burgundy wines did for him.

Unfortunately, Ross’s mother, Diane Cobb, passed away during the height of harvest in 2006. So Ross and his father decided to make that special bottling from the original block of her own-rooted vines that she had meticulously selected and planted and named it after her.

Sometimes, when the sun is shining with a warm, golden glow over the Pacific Ocean, which is not far from his mother’s plot of vines, he thinks about his mother being one of the bravest people he has ever known and will ever know. Even though he was an overwhelmed young man when she was planting the vineyard, her courageous spirit imprinted on him, leading him away from the fear of taking those leaps and bringing him towards taking big chances in life. The biggest chance he took was to stop selling his mother’s special block of grapes to another winery, a highly valuable plot that brought in a steady income. Instead, he started making wine from his mother’s precious Pinot Noir plot himself and named it after her, to honor her for being a great example who had shaped his life away from fear so he could embrace daring challenges.

Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/08/24/pinot-noir-winemaker-who-has-worked-for-famous-wine-brands-makes-his-own-wines/

Cobb lineup of 2021 Pinot Noir wines
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

2021 Cobb, Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. Tantalizing flavors of mulberry coulis and a dusting of cinnamon with raspberry cobbler intertwined with complex notes of broken earth with an overall vibrant quality. 

2021 Cobb, “Diane Cobb,” Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aromas are simply scintillating on this beauty with an intense minerality and oyster shell notes fleshed out by deep red fruit flavors of cherry sauce balanced by higher-tone notes of cranberries with a long, expressive finish.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard
“Joann’s Block” Chardonnay
Photo Credit: Cathrine Todd

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block,” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Chardonnay. A dazzling nose of golden apples, lemon curd and hint of hazelnut with crisp acidity highlighted by notes of stony minerality with a nimble body with a hint of richness. Doc’s Ranch Vineyard is a neighbor and friend of Ross Cobb and this Chardonnay vineyard is named after the matriarch of the family, Joann, who loved Chardonnay wine. She was able to taste the first vintage of this Chardonnay shortly before she passed away.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. Exuberant nose with baking spices, black raspberry scones and candied violets with a hint of a more grounding note of tree bark and a touch of fleshy fruit on the palate with an overall sprightly quality.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard – Swan & Calera Selection, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. A wine that precisely expresses pretty notes of lavender, fresh sage and rose oil with pristine red fruit on the delicately structured palate that expresses so much finesse.

2021 Cobb, Wendling Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. A dark, brooding nose that is very intriguing with layers of black and blue fruit layered with wild herbs and sweet tobacco leaf with a broad body and crisp acidity. This vineyard is owned by fourth-generation grower Paul Ardzrooni, who runs the vineyard management company that Ross Cobb uses for all the vineyards where he sources fruit.

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